I must be in some kind of time warp or something because it turns out that it’s mid-March and I haven’t posted since January!
To the worriers: Sorry. It got away from me, as things do. I think: “Oh I’ll do it when I have a good solid couple of hours to really write a good one…” but then who has a good solid couple of hours to sit and write?! It’s not like I’m in the Peace Corps or something, people. [mental slap on the wrist: I should write more.]
So here it is. Long belated, and I’d like to think, long awaited. An update. The question is- how to approach such a massive amount of material? Surely you didn’t log on expecting to read a novel, especially considering my recent track record of nonposting.
I recall leaving my last posting on an optimistic note: February was going to be a good month. And actually, it was. February brought an unexpected (glorious but brief) warm spell, the discovery that I’m a total natural at ice skating, and last but not least, a visit from Steffen. My first visitor to Kazakhstan! It was really something to have somebody from home come here and have all the reactions and first impressions that I had back in Almaty. It turns out that I must have adapted to the culture a little bit, because it was interesting to be strolling down the street [or as close to strolling as you can get when you’re walking on perilous ice] and watch him be surprised by things that have become normal to me. Such as: mass hocking of lugies in public, odd goods being sold at the bazaar, dead silence on the bus, and the fact that when you go somewhere as a guest, everybody’s life goal is to make you eat more than is humanly possible.
[FYI: Despite a few close calls, I have not, as of yet, had any shoes fall victim to the lugie hocking. If everybody reading this could now knock on wood…that would be grrreat.]
But there’s so much to tell, so I’ll leave it to bullet points:
-It was a really great couple of weeks, and what PC volunteer gets to actually go on a Valentine’s date with anybody other than creepy-local-guy?? Lucky lucky girl I am.
-My classes are fantastic. At first the students thought they were signed up to passively hear me talk about American culture, but noooo. They’re looking at how values and beliefs influence behavior, language, and customs! They’re reflecting on their own culture! They’re analyzing movies and pop music! Questioning their stereotypes! I love my work.
-My colleagues are also great. There are 14 teachers in my department and by now I’m pretty good buddies with most of them. Went to a concert with Zhanna last night and heard some really good traditional music. They had little tiny cellos that sit in the lap. Sophia can you play your cello on you lap? You should probably try and send me photos. From your iPhone. Grrr.
-Smartest and most annoying piece of marketing ever: The message “Sent from my iPhone” that accompanies every single piece of correspondence that is, well, sent from an iPhone. I get it, you have an iPhone.
-It’s still winter. I fell on the ice. I don’t like winter anymore.
-I’m going to Almaty on Friday for a big conference. It’s a two day train ride- did I mention Kazakhstan is huge? Go look at a map. All my pals from training will be there, and I’ll probably get to see my Almaty fam, so stay tuned
-Stopping in Shymkent for a couple of days to take in the celebration of Nauryz, the Kazakh New Year. There will be yurts, vats and vats of the traditional seven-ingredient-dish (that’s what it’s called…not sure what the 7 ingredients are but I’m just going to eat it and then ask), and a much-celebrated game called kokpar, where dozens of men on horseback fight over the headless carcass of a freshly sacrificed goat (maybe one of the ingredients?). Also advertised is a dance contest. Which I am going to win, with my secret weapon dance move. The move that wows locals every time I find myself in the “this-is-the-cheesiest-music-I’ve-ever-heard-but-it’s-going-to-be-a-long-awkward-night-if-I-don’t-dance” situation: The Cast Out The Line and Reel In The Fish. This baby won me some sweet prizes at the university’s Rector’s Ball during New Years, and there’s no way it’s going to fail me on Nauryz. I don’t know how this one didn’t make it under the curtain earlier, but as far as people around here are concerned, I invented it.
-(I’m so bad at bullet points)
-I found a killer flat that - knock on wood - I will move into next month. Details to follow when knocking on wood is no longer necessary.
-I went to a village, Kandagash, and was presented with my first chapan. Chapan: velvet garment embroidered with traditional pattern, traditionally presented to honored guests. The women’s is like a long vest, and the men’s is a big long robe with a matching hat [kind of Mongol-looking, but don’t tell anybody that, because it’s Kazakh.] When Stef was here, he was presented with a chapan…and I’m not gonna lie- I was jealous.
-But apparently I was an honored guest in Kandagash, so booya.
-I just booked flights for my summer travel.
In short: Aktobe-Almaty-[Istanbul]-London-Edinburg-London-[Bahrain]-Muscat-Salalah-Muscat-Dubai-Almaty-Aktobe.
-I’m: EXCITED. Stay tuned for the UK plans. I’m going to see my mom and sisters!!!!!! Also going for a little adventure. It’s called the 3 Peaks Challenge. 3 tallest mountains in the UK, climbed in 24 hours to raise money for AIDS education in the township that the Peace Corps originally invited me to in South Africa. Randomly, run by an NGO whose director is Mel’s friend, so we’re going out there together. Can. Not. Wait.
-Love, CB
